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HOUSE-BREAKING YOUR NEW PUPPY Remember; You get out of housetraining what you put into it!  The importance of thorough house-breaking cannot be overemphasized. The younger the dog, the more difficult the job will be. Unless you do what has to be done, whether directly house-breaking or paper-training as an intermediate step, as discussed below, the dog will not learn. All the reasons that make dogs worthwhile, enjoyable companions are destroyed if the dog cannot be trusted in the house. There are two basic house-breaking techniques, one which uses paper-training as an intermediate stage. Direct house-breaking is by far preferable, but is not convenient to everyone's lifestyle. If you have a yard of any sort, just outside your door, it is not only possible but best to house-break directly. Apartment dwellers may have to rely on the intermediate paper-training method or litter box training. Direct house-breaking is simple. Basically, it involves taking the puppy outside frequently, allowing him to relieve himself, and returning him to the house. Once inside, he is confined to either a 1/2 bath, laundry room or a playpen. In either case, the puppy will be restricted to a small area in which he must play and sleep, an area that he will be extremely reluctant to soil. If he does soil the area, and accidents will happen, chastise him mildly and take him outside immediately to the area he has used before, to remind him that the only permissible place is there. Remember to be fair to him though. A young puppy needs to eliminate often, so take him out frequently in the early days before he has built up a measure of control. He must be taken out about an hour after each feeding. With age, he will be able to contain himself for longer periods and the necessary outing will be reduce to approximately four a day, but let him work up slowly. A majority of house-breaking problems originate with the "kind" owner who lets an untrained puppy have the run of the house. Then the puppy falls into the habit of soiling the floors and furniture, and for years afterward he may be subjected to constant corrections. The choice is between a couple of weeks of close confinement resulting in efficient house-breaking and the possibility of years of dissatisfaction accompanied be non-stop corrections. Furthermore, it's not as if the dog is in solitary confinement. Give your puppy plenty of attention and playtime both in and out of his confinement area. House-breaking in an apartment is a more difficult task. Your veterinarian may advise you not to take the puppy out into the city streets until his shots fully protect him from diseases he might contract there. On the other hand, it may be difficult to make frequent trips down to the street from a high-rise apartment. Such cases call for use of the paper-training method or litter box. Cover about 1/2 the floor of the paper-training room, preferably a 1/2 bath or wash room with several thicknesses of newspaper, and confine the puppy to that area. Wait for him to use them, then pick up the soiled papers and replace them. Continue in this fashion for a day or two. Our puppies are started on paper-training even before they are weaned from the mother. As he seems to understand the paper idea, widen the bare area until you have a papered space equivalent to about two full newspaper sheets. Allow him to use that area until his is old enough to go to the street. Then begin more outside training. At that point, watch carefully for any indication of need for relief (he may search frantically for the papers) and then take him out IMMEDIATELY. As with direct house-breaking, keep him absolutely confined (in this case to the paper area) until the lesson is fully learned. Make sure he is taken outside, or allowed access to the papers, just before the household retires. Be patient and GOOD LUCK!!! |
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